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Thursday, July 20, 2000

St. Andrews perfect setting for Woods' bid at history
By Blaine Newnham
Seattle Times

ST. ANDREWS, Scotland - The sun was setting over St. Andrews Bay as my little rental car made it over the last rise into town.

Before me, bathed in red, were jagged stone church spires and fences. Beyond them was the long, flat beach where they filmed “Chariots of Fire,” and next to it the land on which golf was played 200 years before Shakespeare wrote Hamlet.

I wanted to throw my Titanium driver down in some kind of misplaced sacrifice.

It was almost 10 o'clock at night, but St. Andrews is nine-tenths of the way to the Arctic Circle. I was part of a pagan pilgrimage of almost 50,000 people to see if this week Tiger Woods could become the first player in 34 years to win all four major golf championships in a career.

“There is no better place to do it than here, at St. Andrews, on the most historic course there is,” Woods said yesterday.

Much has been made of the two open championships of golf being played this summer on the two greatest public courses in the world, Pebble Beach and St. Andrews.

To call Pebble Beach public is a $325 lie.

Certainly, the price to play the Old Course has inched past $100 a round and is left in some cases to the luck of a lottery. But to understand just how much St. Andrews is part of a culture and a town, you have to realize that the course is closed on Sundays so that the community can use it for strolls and picnics.

There is no pro, and there are no members. The five courses that roll across the land between the city and the sea are operated by a city trust.

The first tee of the Old Course looks like an extension of the putting green and is so close to town, passers-by can watch and comment.

As the story goes - and this course has more stories than any other - General Eisenhower went directly to the second hole rather than face the embarrassment of missing his drive at the first.

Normally, golf is played in an isolated place separated from real life by geography and economics. Here it is at the center of a community and a culture. Kids in town carry old golf clubs around with them and go after autographs the way the kids in Boston go after the Red Sox.

It is hard to imagine that they banned golf at St. Andrews - it was largely ignored, of course - before Columbus gave a thought about going to America. The Old Course wasn't designed as much as it evolved. The result is astonishing and enduring.

Sam Snead recalled his first sighting of St. Andrews.

“I saw it from the train,” he said. “I didn't see anybody, so I asked, `What abandoned course is that?' It didn't look as if it had ever had a machine on it.”

The first time Bobby Jones, the great American amateur, played it, he tore up his score card and walked off the course on the 11th hole.

Jones would later win the Open by six strokes and say, “the more I studied the Old Course, the more I loved it; and the more I loved it, the more I studied it.”

After all these years and all the changes in the game, what is it about St. Andrews that still tests and excites players from Woods to Jack Nicklaus?

From afar, it looks dead flat. Up close, its fairways ripple like the nearby sea. The British call it random golf. Shots are left to the whims of the wind and the land.

“People say St. Andrews is easy,” Woods said. “Aim left and just hit it. Well, it isn't easy.”

The course looks like none other. Many of the holes are two holes, sharing a common fairway and a green. The fairways are hard and fast, the grass cut short and sparse.

Woods said the fairways were faster than the greens. He knew that because he putted from 40 yards off the green and watched his ball slow as it went.

St. Andrews doesn't share the sea the way Pebble Beach does. Nor does it have the spectacular dunes of Ireland's Ballybunion or the backdrop of Northern Ireland's Royal County Down.

Everything is understated. Players this week were nearly driving the finishing hole, which is a 347-yard par-4 with a 200-yard-wide fairway and no bunkers.

What makes the hole difficult is the undulating fairway leading up to it. Chipping the ball close to the pin proved difficult, and the wind wasn't blowing.

St. Andrews had survived because the winds blow the way they did 200 years ago, because the tumbling turf keeps shots from going where they ought to, and because the bunkers are hidden and painfully penal.

“It is 50-50 whether you will even get out of them the first try,” Nicklaus said after his practice round. “The course is playing faster than I've ever seen it.”

Nicklaus won twice at St. Andrews. He said he would rather win a major championship here than anywhere else.

The setting is perfect to anoint Woods as the greatest player of this time.

“But don't give it to him prematurely,” Nicklaus said. “A lot can happen out there.”

A lot has.

(c) 2000, The Seattle Times. Visit The Seattle Times Extra on the World Wide Web at http://www.seattletimes.com/ Distributed by Knight Ridder/Tribune Information Services.

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