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Tiger Woods turns golf apparel from 'square wear' to status symbol

By Roy H. Campbell

Knight-Ridder Newspapers

Time was when the term "golf fashion" was an oxymoron.

Golf clothes, those geeky plaid ensembles seemingly designed for old codgers, were about as unfashionable as divots on a putting green.

And who, except those who actually knew how to blast their way out of a sand trap, really wanted to walk around looking like a golfer anyway?

But that was all B.T. - "Before Tiger."

Since the young golf sensation Tiger Woods drove, chipped and putted his way to superstardom, breaking records, drawing massive galleries, winning the Masters, all of sudden, the look of the links is more than just hip. It's what's happening.

"Golfwear is no longer square wear," declared Neal Orman, co-owner of Golf America, a five-city chain of golf boutiques located in upper-end malls.

Even company officials are surprised at how many people who wouldn't know a nine-iron from a sand wedge are coming in looking for shirts like those Woods has worn during tournaments, people just wanting the trappings of a golfer - minus the clubs. There are plans to open 12 Golf America stores a year for the next few years, a plan that crystallized when Woods' wins put a tiger in the tank of golf merchandisers.

"Tiger Woods has exploded the market," said R. Mike Matthews, Golf America's director of marketing. "He's taken it from the typical golfer, an older white male, to everyone."

Everyone from young hip-hoppers to skater or surfer dudes are hitting the scene all done up in colorful designer golf duds from the likes of Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren, while sophisticated corporate golfers are donning expensive Arnold Palmer threads.

"It really is all about Tiger Woods. He is the key," said Bud Konheim, president of the Nicole Miller company, which introduced a golf collection this season, advertising it with photographs of leading New York doctors in the printed Miller attire.

Nike obviously believes Woods is key because the company locked him up for a multiyear endorsement deal.

Woods' popularity comes at an opportune moment for the $830 million golf-apparel market, which has grown by 15 percent since 1992. He broke through just as a number of new, hipper golf clothing companies such as the Skins Game swung into the market. Add to that the dress-down workdays that have brought greater demand for such casual merchandise as golf or polo shirts, and a decade-long boom in athletic apparel.

But unlike basketball shirts, football jerseys or biker shorts, all of which have become fashionable and inexpensive, golf apparel had been exclusively for those with the money and the means to play the sport. In fact, most golf apparel historically has been sold in pro shops of country clubs, golf resorts and other so-called "green grass" locations.

That's changing quickly as department stores are realigning the men's department to give more space to duffers' duds, ordering the new golf collections and advertising them heavily like Macy's recent Father's Day sales catalog of young golfer models.

"Tiger Woods has brought golf and golfwear more into the mainstream," said Erin Gaffney, a spokeswoman for lines named for Bobby Jones and Jack Nicklaus. Jones was the great amateur golfer who won the Grand Slam in 1930. (At that time the Grand Slam consisted of the U.S. and British Opens and the U.S. and British Amateurs.) Nicklaus won the Masters a record six times.

The publicity blitz surrounding Woods, 21, the youngest man ever to win the Masters and who did so by the largest margin (12 strokes) with a course-record 270 at Augusta National, has brought new attention from retailers and customers.

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